|1||PCB Power Switch 1|
|2||Diode 1N4148||D1, D2|
|2||Resistor 560R green-blue-brown||R1, R2|
|1||Resistor 1M brown-black-green||R3|
|1||Voltage regulator LP2950Z||IC3|
|1||Connector AVR ISP 6pin angled||JP1|
|1||Connector Switched Output 3pin||X1|
|1||Connector 1 pin header (for serial TX debugging)||JP5|
|1||Relay FTR-K1C (230V, 16A)||K1|
|1||Transceiver PCB RFM12B||IC2|
|1||Antenna (82,2mm wire)|
maybe extra pins, at your opinion.
As always: start from flat to high. Go through the partlist and solder the parts from the top ones to the last ones.
For some parts, you have to consider something special:
(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn't work, fix link in wiki!)
After flashing and switching the power on, your power switch should blink three times slowly. If you haven't flashed working EEPROM settings, it flashed quickly endlessly.
In normal operation, the LED shows the status of the relay. If a timeout is counting down, it flashed very shortly once a second to indicate this.
In PCBs >= V1.1, the RFM12 power pin is connected to an ATMega I/O pin to make it possible to restart the transceiver if communication fails.
If you want to modify your old PCB version to have this feature as well, cut two traces carefully (marked red in the picture) and connect two pins of the RFM transceiver to the ATMega (marked green in the picture).
Make sure you don't create a short circuit and cut the traces correctly. Use a multimeter to check this.