Please note that this dimmer is for CLF lamp power supplies only that support 1-10V input (Osram DIM interface) as described on the homepage. It is not for connecting lamps directly to it.
|1||Resistor 680R blue-gray-brown||R1|
|2||Resistor 1k brown-black-red||R2, R6|
|1||Resistor 1M brown-black-green||R4|
|1||Resistor 1k3 0,1% brown-orange-black-brown||R3|
|1||Resistor 100R 0,1% brown-black-black-black||R5|
|1||Voltage regulator 78L12||IC3|
|1||Voltage regulator LP2950Z||IC4|
|2||Transistor BC547C||T1, T2|
|2||Capacitor 220nF||C5, C6|
|2||Capacitor 10µF||C1, C4|
|2||Capacitor 100µF||C2, C3|
|1||Connector AVR ISP 6pin||JP1|
|3||High Voltage Connector 2pin||X1, X2, X3|
|1||Connector 1 pin header (for power + serial TX debugging)||JP2, JP3|
|1||Fuse 50mA T||F1|
|1||Relay Omron G6D (12V)||K1|
|1||Transceiver PCB RFM12B||IC2|
|1||Antenna (82,2mm wire)|
As always: start from flat to high. Go through the partlist and solder the parts from the top ones to the last ones.
For some parts, you have to consider something special:
(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn't work, fix link in wiki!)
Don't power the circuit immediately by the 230V transformer. It is highly recommended to connect only a DC power supply to JP2 at 14.5 to 20V at the beginning. You can then safely set up and test everything without using dangerous high voltages.
After flashing and switching the power on, the LED flashes several times. The relay stays off. If you switch the dimmer on with a switch at JP4 (near the LED), the relay should switch on.
You can either use an extra housing or integrate the device directly into the housing of a CFL lamp. See the picture on the website for an example.
It is very important to use shielded cables for the 1-10V control voltage. If you use unshielded cables and they are near the high voltage cables, interferences can crash your microcontroller when you switch on the lamp.