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        <title>smarthomatic</title>
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        <lastBuildDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 14:01:43 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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            <title>smarthomatic</title>
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        <item>
            <title>antenna</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=antenna&amp;rev=1380966241&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Rod Antenna

This is a vertical isolated piece of wire. It should have 1/4 wavelength = 82.2mm. You can try also a length of 1/2 wavelength = 164.4mm, especially at the base station, for better reception.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Oct 2013 11:44:01 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>base_station</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=base_station&amp;rev=1717933998&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up a Base Station (or Proxy)

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself or order the PCB or a complete kit.

The base station is designed to run 24/7 on 5V and to be connected to a PC, so you may prefer a stabilized 5V power supply, and not running on batteries. Any USB power supply will do well, and many mobile phone chargers are working at 5V.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Jun 2024 13:53:18 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>build_your_own_firmware</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=build_your_own_firmware&amp;rev=1380962245&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Build your own firmware

Get a copy of the project, if you haven&#039;t already. When you&#039;re running Debian (or another Linux) this will do the job: 

git clone git://github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic

Go into the subdirectory of the device you want to build (e.g.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sat, 05 Oct 2013 10:37:25 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>controller</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=controller&amp;rev=1678132558&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up the Controller

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself / let it be produced at a factory creating PCBs.

Partlist (in buildup order)
  Amount              Part              Placing                Picture</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Mon, 06 Mar 2023 20:55:58 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>device_firmware_template</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=device_firmware_template&amp;rev=1389909757&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Files

The main source file should be called like the device type and the directory name, prefixed with “shc”, e.g. “shc_yourdevice.c|h”.

Main Function

Use these typical functions to initialize your device in the main function:

Create a delay to avoid problems with E2P access when a programmer resets the device in short intervals (which mine did</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Thu, 16 Jan 2014 23:02:37 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>dimmer</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=dimmer&amp;rev=1423419811&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up a Dimmer

Please note that this dimmer is for CLF lamp power supplies only that support 1-10V input (Osram DIM interface) as described on the homepage. It is not for connecting lamps directly to it.

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sun, 08 Feb 2015 19:23:31 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>env_sensor_micro2</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=env_sensor_micro2&amp;rev=1461524947&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up an Environment Sensor (SMD Version)

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself or order the PCB or a complete kit.

The envsensor using the SMD version powered with a CR2032 battery is designed to power only sensors with small power consumption or when the measuring cycle is big. For example, a CR2032 is good if you use the devise as window sensor. If your sensors need more power, you should use a bigger 3V battery or 2 AA(A) alcali…</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sun, 24 Apr 2016 21:09:07 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>env_sensor</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=env_sensor&amp;rev=1716376361&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up an Environment Sensor

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself or order the PCB or a complete kit.

The envsensor is designed to run 24/7 on two alcaline batteries with an estimated battery lifetime of &gt; 5 years.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Wed, 22 May 2024 13:12:41 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>flash_the_atmega</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=flash_the_atmega&amp;rev=1677696055&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Get the firmware

You can either take a pre-built firmware package from &lt;http://www.smarthomatic.org/builds/builds.html&gt; or build your own firmware. If you take the prebuilt package, extract it to a directory of your choice.

Three different storage areas

Every microcontroller has three parts that can be flashed (written):</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Mar 2023 19:40:55 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>hcsr501</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=hcsr501&amp;rev=1464097253&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Movement detection by PIR sensor HC-SR501

General

There are fairly cheap PIR sensors available under the name HC-SR501.
According to various pages this sensors are really nice. Here some features:

	*  less than 80uA power consumtion (max 150 uA while motion is detected)</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Tue, 24 May 2016 15:40:53 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>hr25_thermostat</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=hr25_thermostat&amp;rev=1383765426&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Modification of Honeywell HR25 thermostat

[Figure 1: Honeywell Rondostat HR25 thermostat]
The Honeywell Rondostat HR25 is an electronically programmable thermostat for radiators. 
For integration into a smarthomatic network it needs a RFM12B transmitter and a new firmware.
To keep the programming scheme similar to other smarthomatic devices, an ISP connector is added for easy flashing.
The housing is hacker friendly, it opens without the risk of breaking it.
The electronics is based on an ATmeg…</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Wed, 06 Nov 2013 20:17:06 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>led_soldering</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=led_soldering&amp;rev=1424550705&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Soldering an LED to a cable

Most times, you want to mount your PCB in a housing. To place the LED at your preferred position in the housing easily, you should solder the LED to some wires and the wires to you SHC PCB. Here&#039;s how to do this:

	*  Cut the wires on the LED down to about 4mm.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2015 21:31:45 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>openhab-examples</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=openhab-examples&amp;rev=1435529871&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Examples for OpenHAB

At this page we collect example configurations for the OpenHAB integration of smarthomatic devices.
using the Smarthomatic-Binding published at Github. Some example configurations can be found there as well.

Item definitions

An EnvSensor with Temperature + Humidity message:</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Mon, 29 Jun 2015 00:17:51 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>packet_api</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=packet_api&amp;rev=1406798338&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Introduction

The packet and message format is defined in an XML file. Header files with access functions are generated from it and stored under the “src_common” directory. If you write or change a device firmware, use solely these functions to create and interpret the packet data easily.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jul 2014 11:18:58 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>power_switch</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=power_switch&amp;rev=1752344785&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up a Power Switch

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself or let a company produce one for you using the layout.

Partlist (in buildup order)
  Amount                 Part</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sat, 12 Jul 2025 20:26:25 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>rfm12b_soldering</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=rfm12b_soldering&amp;rev=1424550087&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Prepare the solder pins

Apply a tiny bit of solder to the pins of the RFM12B transceiver before you solder it to the PCB of the smarthomatic device later on. You don&#039;t need to do this with every pin, but only with the ones that will be connected. See the picture below.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sat, 21 Feb 2015 21:21:27 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>rgb_dimmer</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=rgb_dimmer&amp;rev=1677590645&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up an RGB Dimmer

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself or order the PCB or a complete kit.

Partlist (in buildup order)
  Amount                 Part                        Placing                Picture</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Tue, 28 Feb 2023 14:24:05 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>setup_avrdude</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=setup_avrdude&amp;rev=1394889387&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Write default settings in config file

You should create a config file for avrdude containing your default settings. After the config file is created, you can use avrdude without entering the settings each time. This also makes it possible to leave this parameters out of the makefiles.</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Sat, 15 Mar 2014 14:16:27 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>soil_moisture_meter</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=soil_moisture_meter&amp;rev=1422567832&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Building up a Soil Moisture Meter

Needed Parts and PCB

You need a PCB. You may use the layout from Github and etch it yourself or order the PCB.

Partlist (in buildup order)
  Amount                 Part                        Placing                Picture</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Thu, 29 Jan 2015 22:43:52 +0000</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <title>start</title>
            <link>https://www.smarthomatic.org/wiki/doku.php?id=start&amp;rev=1677696176&amp;do=diff</link>
            <description>Welcome

This is the smarthomatic Wiki which describes how to build up the devices.
You are invited to add your input when building up a device according to this wiki.

Get Write Access

The user account is associated with the forum account. To get access, register at the</description>
            <author>anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous)</author>
            <pubDate>Wed, 01 Mar 2023 19:42:56 +0000</pubDate>
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