rgb_dimmer
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rgb_dimmer [2014/07/12 16:25] – breaker27 | rgb_dimmer [2023/02/28 14:17] – breaker27 | ||
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^ Amount | ^ Amount | ||
| 1 | PCB RGB Dimmer 1 | | {{ parts: | | 1 | PCB RGB Dimmer 1 | | {{ parts: | ||
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| 1 | Diode 1N4148 | | 1 | Diode 1N4148 | ||
| 4 | Resistor 560R green-blue-brown | | 4 | Resistor 560R green-blue-brown | ||
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| 1 | LED 2mA | LED1 | | 1 | LED 2mA | LED1 | ||
| 1 | Connector AVR ISP 6pin | JP1 | {{ parts: | | 1 | Connector AVR ISP 6pin | JP1 | {{ parts: | ||
- | | 1 | Connector | + | | 1 | Connector pin header (for serial TX debugging |
| 1 | Capacitor 10µF | C1 | | 1 | Capacitor 10µF | C1 | ||
+ | | 1 | Capacitor 100µF | ||
| 1 | IC ATMega328 | | 1 | IC ATMega328 | ||
| 1 | Transceiver PCB RFM12B | | 1 | Transceiver PCB RFM12B | ||
| 1 | Antenna (82,2mm wire) | | 1 | Antenna (82,2mm wire) | ||
- | maybe extra pins, at your opinion. | + | You have to decide on the LEDs you want to use. Depending on the type, you have to use different resistors R6, R7, R8 for the LEDs. See further down for a recommended one. |
+ | |||
+ | The capacitor C2 is only to buffer the input voltage in case you connect LEDs that draw much power and you want to avoid problems with some programmers that may have problems flahing when the voltage changes much. | ||
===== Buildup of PCB ===== | ===== Buildup of PCB ===== | ||
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//(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn' | //(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn' | ||
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+ | ===== Modification of PCB rev. <= 1.1 ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | The older PCBs have the speaker connected to PD3 (pin5). Since the 16 bit timer has to be used to generate accurate frequencies, | ||
+ | |||
+ | The pin to drive the transistor for the blue LED has to be moved from PB1 (pin 15) to PD3 (pin 5). | ||
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+ | In future PCB versions, this shall be changed in the schematic and layout. | ||
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+ | To perform the modification, | ||
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+ | {{ rgb_dimmer_speaker_mod.jpg }} | ||
===== Flashing the firmware ===== | ===== Flashing the firmware ===== | ||
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If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, [[http:// | If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, [[http:// | ||
- | ===== Integrate it into a housing | + | ===== Power the Device ===== |
+ | |||
+ | The device has an internal voltage regulator with 3.3V output to power the ATMega and the RFM12B. It's recommended to power the whole device with a 5V power supply. You can use a cheap one that is meant as phone charger. They have typically 500mA output current. | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===== Connecting LEDs ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | You can power three single LEDs or a multi RGB LED with common anode (+). The maximum current is 0.6A, limited by the transistors. Calculate the resistor you need by the following formula: | ||
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+ | R = (U_in - 0.3 - U_LED) / I_LED | ||
+ | |||
+ | with U_in the input voltage of the device (e.g. 5V), U_LED the voltage your LED needs (e.g. 2.8V) and I_LED the current you want to do through the LED (e.g. 250mA). | ||
+ | |||
+ | ==== Recommended LED module and resistors ==== | ||
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+ | One LED type that is very bright with a moderate current are the **Cree XP-E LEDs**. They are available as a module in the smarthomatic shop. The module makes assembling easier and ensures good cooling. | ||
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+ | If you use this module, the following sets of resistors are recommended: | ||
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+ | ^ Placing | ||
+ | | R6 | Resistor for **red** LED | 39 Ohm | 27 Ohm | 7,5 Ohm | | ||
+ | | R7 | Resistor for **green** LED | 27 Ohm | 18 Ohm | 5,6 Ohm | | ||
+ | | R8 | Resistor for **blue** LED | ||
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+ | The " | ||
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+ | The " | ||
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+ | With the " | ||
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+ | Use resistors which can tolerate the power they consume. The power is calculated as: | ||
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+ | P = U_Res * I_LED | ||
+ | |||
+ | with U_Res the voltage at the resistor. | ||
- | describe it... |
rgb_dimmer.txt · Last modified: 2023/02/28 14:24 by breaker27