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power_switch [2014/01/12 11:36]
breaker27 [Buildup of PCB]
power_switch [2015/11/15 20:59] (current)
breaker27 [Modification of RFM12 power pin (PCB < V1.1)]
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-====== UNDER WORK! DON'T USE THIS YET!! ====== 
- 
- 
- 
 ====== Building up a Power Switch ====== ====== Building up a Power Switch ======
  
 ===== Needed Parts and PCB ===== ===== Needed Parts and PCB =====
  
-You need a **PCB**. You may use the layout from [[https://​github.com/​breaker27/​smarthomatic/​tree/​master/​hardware/​power_switch_1|Github]] and etch it yourself or [[https://​www.smarthomatic.com/​shop/​|order]] the PCB or a complete kit.+You need a **PCB**. You may use the layout from [[https://​github.com/​breaker27/​smarthomatic/​tree/​develop/​hardware/​power_switch_1|Github]] and etch it yourself or [[https://​www.smarthomatic.org/​shop/​|order]] the PCB or a complete kit.
  
 ==== Partlist (in buildup order) ==== ==== Partlist (in buildup order) ====
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 |    1     | Connector 1 pin header (for serial TX debugging) ​ | JP5        |  {{ parts:​connector_pinheader.jpg }}   | |    1     | Connector 1 pin header (for serial TX debugging) ​ | JP5        |  {{ parts:​connector_pinheader.jpg }}   |
 |    1     | Capacitor 10µF                          | C1         ​| ​ {{ parts:​capacitor_10uf.jpg }}        | |    1     | Capacitor 10µF                          | C1         ​| ​ {{ parts:​capacitor_10uf.jpg }}        |
 +|    1     | Capacitor 1µF                           | C2         ​| ​ {{ parts:​capacitor_220nf.jpg }}       |
 |    1     | IC ATMega328 ​                           | IC1        |  {{ parts:​atmega.jpg }}                | |    1     | IC ATMega328 ​                           | IC1        |  {{ parts:​atmega.jpg }}                |
 |    1     | Relay FTR-K1C (230V, 16A)               | K1         ​| ​ {{ parts:​relay_ftr_k1c.jpg }}         | |    1     | Relay FTR-K1C (230V, 16A)               | K1         ​| ​ {{ parts:​relay_ftr_k1c.jpg }}         |
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   * **ATMega:** Before inserting it, you may want to check the voltage levels when switching the power on. Pin7 should have VCC (3V) against pin8 (ground). If you have different voltages: don't panic, nothing is broken, nothing is fried. Search your error. To insert the ATMega, bend the pins at 90 degreed by placing the ATMega on the table and bending it carefully. Then insert it into the IC holder. Be sure that you are not charged with electricity (ESD!) when touching the IC pins.   * **ATMega:** Before inserting it, you may want to check the voltage levels when switching the power on. Pin7 should have VCC (3V) against pin8 (ground). If you have different voltages: don't panic, nothing is broken, nothing is fried. Search your error. To insert the ATMega, bend the pins at 90 degreed by placing the ATMega on the table and bending it carefully. Then insert it into the IC holder. Be sure that you are not charged with electricity (ESD!) when touching the IC pins.
   * **RFM12B:** You should also check the voltages first before soldering the module. At the place for the radio module the pad beside the antenna and at the opposite side the third pad should read about 3.3 V. For soldering, read [[rfm12b_soldering|the RFM12B mounting instructions]].   * **RFM12B:** You should also check the voltages first before soldering the module. At the place for the radio module the pad beside the antenna and at the opposite side the third pad should read about 3.3 V. For soldering, read [[rfm12b_soldering|the RFM12B mounting instructions]].
 +  * **Relais:** If you want to switch high currents, especially at high voltages, it is recommended to solder the wires directly to the relais pins on the bottom of the PCB.
  
 {{https://​raw.github.com/​breaker27/​smarthomatic/​develop/​hardware/​power_switch_1/​placing.png?​500}} {{https://​raw.github.com/​breaker27/​smarthomatic/​develop/​hardware/​power_switch_1/​placing.png?​500}}
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 If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, [[http://​www.smarthomatic.org/​builds/​builds.html|download a prebuilt binary package]] or [[build your own firmware|build your own firmware]]. If you bought a hardware kit, the ATMega should already be flashed. If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, [[http://​www.smarthomatic.org/​builds/​builds.html|download a prebuilt binary package]] or [[build your own firmware|build your own firmware]]. If you bought a hardware kit, the ATMega should already be flashed.
  
-You can leave the batteries inserted all the timeno matter if you're currently flashing or using the device.+After flashing and switching ​the power onyour power switch should blink three times slowly. If you haven't flashed working EEPROM settings, it flashed quickly endlessly.
  
-To make a "​reset"​take one battery shortly out of its holder. +In normal operationthe LED shows the status ​of the relayIf a timeout is counting down, it flashed very shortly once a second to indicate this.
- +
-After flashing and switching ​the power on, your temp sensor should blink quickly for some secondsAfter that, it only flashes ​shortly once whenever ​temperature data packet is sent (>5 min).+
  
 ===== Integrate it into a housing ===== ===== Integrate it into a housing =====
  
 describe it... describe it...
 +
 +===== Modification of RFM12 power pin (PCB < V1.1) =====
 +
 +In PCBs >= V1.1, the RFM12 power pin is connected to an ATMega I/O pin to make it possible to restart the transceiver if communication fails.
 +
 +If you want to modify your old PCB version to have this feature as well, cut two traces carefully (marked red in the picture) and connect two pins of the RFM transceiver to the ATMega (marked green in the picture).
 +
 +Make sure you don't create a short circuit and cut the traces correctly. Use a multimeter to check this.
 +
 +
 +{{:​powerswitch_v1_mod.jpg?​500|}}
power_switch.1389522992.txt.gz · Last modified: 2014/01/12 11:36 by breaker27