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base_station [2013/10/04 18:56] – external edit 127.0.0.1base_station [2014/03/02 17:11] (current) – [Needed Parts and PCB] breaker27
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 +====== Building up a Base Station ======
 +
 ===== Needed Parts and PCB ===== ===== Needed Parts and PCB =====
  
-You need a **PCB**. You may use the layout from [[https://github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/tree/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1|Github]] and etch it yourself or [[https://www.smarthomatic.com/shop/|order]] the PCB or a complete kit.+You need a **PCB**. You may use the layout from [[https://github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/tree/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1|Github]] and etch it yourself or [[https://www.smarthomatic.org/shop/|order]] the PCB or a complete kit.
  
 The base station is designed to run 24/7 on 5V and to be connected to a PC, so you may prefer a stabilized 5V power supply, and not running on batteries. Any USB power supply will do well, and many mobile phone chargers are working at 5V. The base station is designed to run 24/7 on 5V and to be connected to a PC, so you may prefer a stabilized 5V power supply, and not running on batteries. Any USB power supply will do well, and many mobile phone chargers are working at 5V.
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 ==== Partlist (in buildup order) ==== ==== Partlist (in buildup order) ====
  
-^  Amount  ^               Part              ^  Placing               Picture            ^+^  Amount  ^               Part              ^  Placing               Picture              ^
 |    1     | PCB Generic Maxi Speed 1        |            |  {{ parts:pcb_maxi_speed.jpg }}  | |    1     | PCB Generic Maxi Speed 1        |            |  {{ parts:pcb_maxi_speed.jpg }}  |
-|    1     | Diode 1N4148                    | D1          {{ parts:diode_1n4148.jpg }} | +|    1     | Diode 1N4148                    | D1          {{ parts:diode_1n4148.jpg }}    
-|    3     | Zener Diode 3,3V                | D2, D3, D4 |  {{ parts:diode_3_3v.jpg }} | +|    3     | Zener Diode 3,3V                | D2, D3, D4 |  {{ parts:diode_3_3v.jpg }}      
-|    1     | Resistor 1k5 brown-green-red    | R1          {{ parts:resistor_1k5.jpg }} | +|    1     | Resistor 1k5 brown-green-red    | R1          {{ parts:resistor_1k5.jpg }}    
-|    3     | Resistor 1k brown-black-red     | R4, R5, R6 |  {{ parts:resistor_1k.jpg }} | +|    3     | Resistor 1k brown-black-red     | R4, R5, R6 |  {{ parts:resistor_1k.jpg }}     
-|    1     | Resistor 1M brown-black-green   | R10        |  {{ parts:resistor_1m.jpg }} | +|    1     | Resistor 1M brown-black-green   | R10        |  {{ parts:resistor_1m.jpg }}     
-|    1     | Quarz / Crystal 20 MHz          | Q1          {{ parts:crystal_20mhz.jpg }} | +|    1     | Quarz / Crystal 20 MHz          | Q1          {{ parts:crystal_20mhz.jpg }}   
-|    2     | Capacitor 22pF                  | C1, C2      {{ parts:capacitor_22pf.jpg }} | +|    2     | Capacitor 22pF                  | C1, C2      {{ parts:capacitor_22pf.jpg }}  
-|        | Capacitor 10uF                  C5, C6     |  {{ parts:capacitor_10uf.jpg }} | +|        | Button/Switch                   S1         |  {{ parts:button.jpg }}          
-|    1     Button/Switch                   S1         |  {{ parts:button.jpg }} | +|    1     IC holder                       IC1        |  {{ parts:ic_holder.jpg }}       
-|    1     IC holder                       IC1         {{ parts:ic_holder.jpg }} | +|    1     Voltage regulator LP2950Z       IC3         {{ parts:ic_lp2950z.jpg }}      
-|    1     IC ATMega328                    IC1        |  {{ parts:atmega.jpg }} | +|    1     LED 2mA                         LED1       |  {{ parts:led_yellow.jpg }}      
-|    1     Voltage regulator LP2950Z       IC3         {{ parts:ic_lp2950z.jpg }} | +|    1     Connector AVR ISP 6pin          JP1         {{ parts:connector_isp.jpg }}   
-|        | LED 2mA                         LED1       |  {{ parts:led_yellow.jpg }} | +|        | Capacitor 10µF                  C5, C6     |  {{ parts:capacitor_10uf.jpg }}  
-|    1     Connector AVR ISP 6pin          JP1         {{ parts:connector_isp.jpg }} | +|    1     IC ATMega328                    IC1         {{ parts:atmega.jpg }}          
-|    1     | Transceiver PCB RFM12B          | IC2        |  {{ parts:ic_rfm12b.jpg }} | +|    1     | Transceiver PCB RFM12B          | IC2        |  {{ parts:ic_rfm12b.jpg }}       
- +|    1     | Antenna (82,2mm wire)           | JP2        |  {{ parts:antenna.jpg }}         |
-some jumpers and connectors for powerserial, ISP and maybe extra pins, at your opinion.+
  
 +some jumpers and connectors for power, serial and maybe extra pins, at your opinion.
  
 Optional: Optional:
   *resistors 150k & 330k, for measuring the supply voltage. Obsolete for a base station, but you can connect them if you built something else with the Generix Maxi Speed PCB that runs on batteries.   *resistors 150k & 330k, for measuring the supply voltage. Obsolete for a base station, but you can connect them if you built something else with the Generix Maxi Speed PCB that runs on batteries.
 +===== Buildup of PCB =====
  
-alternativesRFM12 (without the "B"), running on 5VThe range will probably be smaller. You don't need the diodes (except the LED), replace the 1k resistors with pure wires, and don't use the voltage regulator but shorten the input and output. You may remove the second Tantal 10µF, too.+As alwaysstart from flat to highGo through the partlist and solder the parts from the top ones to the last ones.
  
-===== Buildup of PCB ===== +For some partsyou have to consider something special:
-As always: start from flat to high. Solder the wires firstthen the resistors, diodes, condensators, the µC socket, the crystal. At the end solder the connectors, the voltage regulator and the LED. Diodes and tantalum condensators have a pin marked with a ring or a "+" printed on it. The direction matters, so when soldering them, take a look at the placing picture below. +
-Don't solder the radio module, and don't push the µC into the socket. Connect the 5V power supply, and check if the right voltages are at the µC socket and at the radio module pads.+
  
-{{ https://raw.github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1/placing.png?500 }} +  * **Diodes:** Look at the marked ring. This has to match the line the top of the arrow on the PCB. 
-//(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn'workfix link in wiki!)//+  * **IC holder:** Look at the notch and place it in the right direction. 
 +  * **Voltage regulator:** Make the soldering time of this IC short to not overheat it. Don't push it all the way down to the PCB and cut the wires. Just push the wires about 1 or 2 mm through the PCB, to prevent overheating while soldering
 +  * **LED:** Solder it to a wire if you want to place the PCB in a housing later. Read the instructions on how to [[LED_soldering|solder the LED to a cable]]. The longer wire of the LED is +. It goes into the hole more in the middle of the PCB. 
 +  * **ISP Connector:** The notch points to the side of the PCB (towards the voltage regulator). 
 +  * **10 µF Capacitor:** The marked line is -, which is more in the middle of the PCB for both capacitors. On the PCB, + is labelled. 
 +  * **USB-to-serial connector:** Either solder a 90 degree pin header here or some wires, which makes it easier to place the USB-to-serial PCB in a houseing. If using a pin header, make sure the shorter part is inserted into the SHC PCB. Ground (labelled on the USB-to-serial PCB) is in the middle of the SHC PCB. 
 +  * **ATMega:** Before inserting it, you may want to check the voltage levels when switching the power on. Pin7 should have VCC (5V) against pin8 (ground). If you have different voltages: don'panicnothing is broken, nothing is fried. Search your error. To insert the ATMega, bend the pins at 90 degreed by placing the ATMega on the table and bending it carefully. Then insert it into the IC holder. Be sure that you are not charged with electricity (ESD!) when touching the IC pins. 
 +  * **RFM12B:** You should also check the voltages first before soldering the module. At the place for the radio module the pad beside the antenna and at the opposite side the third pad should read about 3.3V. For soldering, read [[rfm12b_soldering|the RFM12B mounting instructions]]. 
 +  * **Antenna:** After you solder the antenna, which might be a little bit longer at first, measure it's length and cut it exactly at 82.2mm.
  
-Connect the black test wire to the ground, f.exat the first pin of the serial port. The third pin should read approx. 5V, and the pins 6 & 21 of the µC socket should be 5V, too. At the place for the radio module the pad beside the antenna and at the opposite side the third pad should read about 3.3 V.+{{https://raw.github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1/placing.png?500}}
  
-If you have different voltages: don'panicnothing is broken, nothing is fried. Search your error. +//(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn'workfix link in wiki!)//
- +
-If you get the correct voltages, solder the radio module in place. Remember to put a small isolation, maybe a small plastic part, between the base station PCB and the radio module, because they both are unisolated. Push the µC into the socket.+
 ===== Flashing the firmware ===== ===== Flashing the firmware =====
  
-If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, download a prebuilt binary package or compile your firmware as described in xx. If you bought a hardware kit, the ATMega should already be flashed.+If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, [[http://www.smarthomatic.org/builds/builds.html|download a prebuilt binary package]] or [[build your own firmware|build your own firmware]]. If you bought a hardware kit, the ATMega should already be flashed.
  
 After flashing and switching the power on, your base station should start blinking the LED once a second. After flashing and switching the power on, your base station should start blinking the LED once a second.
- 
 ===== Integrate it into a housing ===== ===== Integrate it into a housing =====
  
-describe it...+This is an example how to integrate the electronics into a nice housing. 
 +Here a black plastic housing was used ([[http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/520985|Conrad, 2.15EUR]]). 
 +The left figure shows the planned arrangement of parts: The smarthomatic base-station pcb, the FTDI FT232RL based serial USB adapter and the LEDs. 
 +The housing contains 4 pins inside for screw mounting, but it was on the wrong place, so it was removed with a drill and a chisel. On the side wall the marks for the USB-port and the LEDs are visible.  
 +The third figure shows the final assembly, the second LED was omitted. 
 +All parts were fixed with hot glue. 
 + 
 +^{{:basestation_housing_01.jpg?direct&200|Lower case with parts arrangement}}^ {{:basestation_housing_02.jpg?direct&200|pin removed, openings marked}}^ 
 +|:::|{{:basestation_housing_03.jpg?direct&200|finished}}|
base_station.1380905781.txt.gz · Last modified: 2013/10/04 19:56 (external edit)