Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- base_station [2013/10/04 16:45] – breaker27
+++ base_station [2014/03/02 17:11] (current) – [Needed Parts and PCB] breaker27
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
+====== Building up a Base Station ======
 ===== Needed Parts and PCB =====
-You need a **PCB**. You may use the layout from [[https://github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/tree/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1|Github]] and etch it yourself or [[https://www.smarthomatic.com/shop/|order]] the PCB or a complete kit.
+You need a **PCB**. You may use the layout from [[https://github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/tree/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1|Github]] and etch it yourself or [[https://www.smarthomatic.org/shop/|order]] the PCB or a complete kit.
 The base station is designed to run 24/7 on 5V and to be connected to a PC, so you may prefer a stabilized 5V power supply, and not running on batteries. Any USB power supply will do well, and many mobile phone chargers are working at 5V.
-^  Amount  ^ Part                            ^ Placing    ^ Photo ^
+==== Partlist (in buildup order) ====
-|    1     | PCB Generic Maxi Speed 1        |            | {{ wiki:dokuwiki-128.png}} |
-|    1     | Diode 1N4148                    | D1         | x |
-|    3     | Zener Diode 3,3V                | D2, D3, D4 | x |
-|    1     | Resistor 1k5 brown-green-red    | R1         | x |
-|    3     | Resistor 1k brown-black-red     | R4, R5, R6 | x |
-|    1     | Resistor 1M brown-black-green   | R10        | x |
-|    1     | Quarz / Crystal 20 MHz          | Q1         | x |
-|    2     | Capacitor 22pF                  | C1, C2     | x |
-|    2     | Capacitor 10uF                  | C5, C6     | x |
-|    1     | Button/Switch                   | S1         | x |
-|    1     | IC holder                       | IC1        | x |
-|    1     | IC ATMega328                    | IC1        | x |
-|    1     | Voltage regulator LP2950Z TO92  | IC3        | x |
-|    1     | LED 2mA                         | LED1       | x |
-|    1     | Connector AVR ISP 6pin          | JP1        | x |
-|    1     | Transceiver PCB RFM12B          | IC2        | x |
-some jumpers and connectors for power, serial, ISP and maybe extra pins, at your opinion.
+^  Amount  ^               Part              ^  Placing   ^             Picture              ^
+|    1     | PCB Generic Maxi Speed 1        |            |  {{ parts:pcb_maxi_speed.jpg }}  |
+|    1     | Diode 1N4148                    | D1         |  {{ parts:diode_1n4148.jpg }}    |
+|    3     | Zener Diode 3,3V                | D2, D3, D4 |  {{ parts:diode_3_3v.jpg }}      |
+|    1     | Resistor 1k5 brown-green-red    | R1         |  {{ parts:resistor_1k5.jpg }}    |
+|    3     | Resistor 1k brown-black-red     | R4, R5, R6 |  {{ parts:resistor_1k.jpg }}     |
+|    1     | Resistor 1M brown-black-green   | R10        |  {{ parts:resistor_1m.jpg }}     |
+|    1     | Quarz / Crystal 20 MHz          | Q1         |  {{ parts:crystal_20mhz.jpg }}   |
+|    2     | Capacitor 22pF                  | C1, C2     |  {{ parts:capacitor_22pf.jpg }}  |
+|    1     | Button/Switch                   | S1         |  {{ parts:button.jpg }}          |
+|    1     | IC holder                       | IC1        |  {{ parts:ic_holder.jpg }}       |
+|    1     | Voltage regulator LP2950Z       | IC3        |  {{ parts:ic_lp2950z.jpg }}      |
+|    1     | LED 2mA                         | LED1       |  {{ parts:led_yellow.jpg }}      |
+|    1     | Connector AVR ISP 6pin          | JP1        |  {{ parts:connector_isp.jpg }}   |
+|    2     | Capacitor 10µF                  | C5, C6     |  {{ parts:capacitor_10uf.jpg }}  |
+|    1     | IC ATMega328                    | IC1        |  {{ parts:atmega.jpg }}          |
+|    1     | Transceiver PCB RFM12B          | IC2        |  {{ parts:ic_rfm12b.jpg }}       |
+|    1     | Antenna (82,2mm wire)           | JP2        |  {{ parts:antenna.jpg }}         |
+some jumpers and connectors for power, serial and maybe extra pins, at your opinion.
 Optional:
-  *push button (for resetting the device)
+  *resistors 150k & 330k, for measuring the supply voltage. Obsolete for a base station, but you can connect them if you built something else with the Generix Maxi Speed PCB that runs on batteries.
-  *resistors 150k & 330k, for measuring the supply voltage - probably obsolete when running on mains power
+===== Buildup of PCB =====
-alternatives: RFM12 (without the "B"), running on 5V. The range will probably be smaller. You don't need the diodes (except the LED), replace the 1k resistors with pure wires, and don't use the voltage regulator but shorten the input and output. You may remove the second Tantal 10µF, too.
+As always: start from flat to high. Go through the partlist and solder the parts from the top ones to the last ones.
-===== Preparation of parts =====
-describe it...
+For some parts, you have to consider something special:
-===== Buildup of PCB =====
+  * **Diodes:** Look at the marked ring. This has to match the line / the top of the arrow on the PCB.
-As always: start from flat to high. Solder the wires first, then the resistors, diodes, condensators, the µC socket, the crystal. At the end solder the connectors, the voltage regulator and the LED. Diodes and tantalum condensators have a pin marked with a ring or a "+" printed on it. The direction matters, so when soldering them, take a look at the placing picture below.
+  * **IC holder:** Look at the notch and place it in the right direction.
-Don't solder the radio module, and don't push the µC into the socket. Connect the 5V power supply, and check if the right voltages are at the µC socket and at the radio module pads.
+  * **Voltage regulator:** Make the soldering time of this IC short to not overheat it. Don't push it all the way down to the PCB and cut the wires. Just push the wires about 1 or 2 mm through the PCB, to prevent overheating while soldering.
+  * **LED:** Solder it to a wire if you want to place the PCB in a housing later. Read the instructions on how to [[LED_soldering|solder the LED to a cable]]. The longer wire of the LED is +. It goes into the hole more in the middle of the PCB.
+  * **ISP Connector:** The notch points to the side of the PCB (towards the voltage regulator).
+  * **10 µF Capacitor:** The marked line is -, which is more in the middle of the PCB for both capacitors. On the PCB, + is labelled.
+  * **USB-to-serial connector:** Either solder a 90 degree pin header here or some wires, which makes it easier to place the USB-to-serial PCB in a houseing. If using a pin header, make sure the shorter part is inserted into the SHC PCB. Ground (labelled on the USB-to-serial PCB) is in the middle of the SHC PCB.
+  * **ATMega:** Before inserting it, you may want to check the voltage levels when switching the power on. Pin7 should have VCC (5V) against pin8 (ground). If you have different voltages: don't panic, nothing is broken, nothing is fried. Search your error. To insert the ATMega, bend the pins at 90 degreed by placing the ATMega on the table and bending it carefully. Then insert it into the IC holder. Be sure that you are not charged with electricity (ESD!) when touching the IC pins.
+  * **RFM12B:** You should also check the voltages first before soldering the module. At the place for the radio module the pad beside the antenna and at the opposite side the third pad should read about 3.3V. For soldering, read [[rfm12b_soldering|the RFM12B mounting instructions]].
+  * **Antenna:** After you solder the antenna, which might be a little bit longer at first, measure it's length and cut it exactly at 82.2mm.
+{{https://raw.github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1/placing.png?500}}
-{{ https://raw.github.com/breaker27/smarthomatic/master/hardware/generic_maxi_speed_1/placing.png?500 }}
 //(Image directly loaded from external GitHub source. If it doesn't work, fix link in wiki!)//
-Connect the black test wire to the ground, f.ex. at the first pin of the serial port. The third pin should read approx. 5V, and the pins 6 & 21 of the µC socket should be 5V, too. At the place for the radio module the pad beside the antenna and at the opposite side the third pad should read about 3.3 V.
-If you have different voltages: don't panic, nothing is broken, nothing is fried. Search your error.
-If you get the correct voltages, solder the radio module in place. Remember to put a small isolation, maybe a small plastic part, between the base station PCB and the radio module, because they both are unisolated. Push the µC into the socket.
 ===== Flashing the firmware =====
-If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, download a prebuilt binary package or compile your firmware as described in xx. If you bought a hardware kit, the ATMega should already be flashed.
+If you have a new ATMega where nothing is flashed onto, [[http://www.smarthomatic.org/builds/builds.html|download a prebuilt binary package]] or [[build your own firmware|build your own firmware]]. If you bought a hardware kit, the ATMega should already be flashed.
 After flashing and switching the power on, your base station should start blinking the LED once a second.
 ===== Integrate it into a housing =====
-describe it...
+This is an example how to integrate the electronics into a nice housing.
+Here a black plastic housing was used ([[http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/520985|Conrad, 2.15EUR]]).
+The left figure shows the planned arrangement of parts: The smarthomatic base-station pcb, the FTDI FT232RL based serial USB adapter and the LEDs.
+The housing contains 4 pins inside for screw mounting, but it was on the wrong place, so it was removed with a drill and a chisel. On the side wall the marks for the USB-port and the LEDs are visible.
+The third figure shows the final assembly, the second LED was omitted.
+All parts were fixed with hot glue.
+^{{:basestation_housing_01.jpg?direct&200|Lower case with parts arrangement}}^ {{:basestation_housing_02.jpg?direct&200|pin removed, openings marked}}^
+|:::|{{:basestation_housing_03.jpg?direct&200|finished}}|